Care Instructions
Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just starting your green journey, we’re here to help your plants thrive. On this page, you’ll find easy-to-follow care instructions for our seedlings, ensuring they grow healthy and strong from root to bloom. Let’s get growing!
Choose A Plant
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sun daily and well-draining soil (sandy or loamy). Spacing should be 3-4 ft apart.
Watering: Water deeply twice a week, which will allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. If the leaves droop during the day but perk back up at night the plants are receiving enough water. However, if they do not perk back up at night you need to increase the watering frequency and cover with shade cloth. Once the fruits begin to appear, increase watering to encourage their development.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield.
Shade cloth will help your melon make it through the summer in Arizona, cover them until temperatures fall below 100°.
Pest Control: Common pests include: Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Diseases: Primo Cantaloupe are susceptible to powdery mildew, inspect your plants regularly
Fertilizer: Use a balance fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar)
Harvesting and Storage: Your fruit should be ripe in approximately 75-80 days, but look for the rind to turn golden yellow and the blossom end to soften. Arava melons will slip from the vine when ripe as well. Smell your fruit! If it smells sweet, it’s time. Cut the fruit off with a sharp knife and enjoy! Store melons in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a well-draining container at least 15 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Armenian cucumber is a heat-loving vining plant that produces long, slender, ribbed fruits with a mild, crisp flavor. Although it resembles a cucumber, it is technically a melon and thrives in warm climates.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of sun daily and well-draining soil (sandy or loamy). Spacing should be 2-4 ft. apart if letting plants sprawl and 1 foot apart if trellising.
Watering: Water deeply twice a week, which will allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. If the leaves droop during the day but perk back up at night the plants are receiving enough water. However, if they do not perk back up at night you need to increase the watering frequency.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield. Let your plant grow up a trellis or something similar. This will help with shade, provides air circulation for the plant, and saves space.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include: Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Drip watering will prevent most diseases, so avoid overhead sprinklers.
Powdery mildew is a common disease and can be prevented with enough air flow and spacing between plants. If you have it, remove the infected plant parts and throw them in the trash, do not compost.
Cut off any yellow or diseased leaves so they don’t drain energy from the plant.
Harvesting and Storage: The fruit is ready when it is 8-18 inches long and tender to the touch. Cut with a sharp knife. If your harvest your plant regularly it will continue to produce cucumbers throughout the summer. They will store up to 10 days in your house, but consider pickling if you’d like to extend their shelf life. Also good to eat in stir-fry or grilled.
Notes on varieties:
Striped Armenian: Also known as Painted Serpent, the fruit of this plant have a unique curvy shape with light and dark green stripes.
Pale: Sweet and crunchy, less colorful variety.
Artichoke plants are visually striking plants to add to your garden that will return on their own year after year. The edible buds are ready after around 120 days. If the bud is left unharvested, they develop into a large, beautiful purple flower.
Growing: A good artichoke plant can live for 4 to 5 years. Give the plant a lot of space as they can grow fairly large. 4 feet of space is usually a good target. Make sure the soil drains quickly and does not become waterlogged. Fertilize the plant monthly with an organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion. After the season is over, cut the stalk close to the ground and cover it with mulch for insulation during the hot summers.
Watering: Artichokes require consistent moisture and deep water. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely. Deep watering encourages better roots and more flavorful buds.
Pest and Disease Control: Artichokes are naturally pest resistant.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest artichoke when they are about 3-4 inches in diameter and still tight and firm, before the “leaves” of the bud start to separate.
Container Growing: Because Artichoke can get large, choose at least a 10-gallon container and be sure to fertilize monthly.
Arugula grows fast, requires little space, and grows in any container. It grows best in the cooler temperatures of Arizona’s fall or early spring; plant it after the monsoons when cooler temperatures arrive in October and plan to harvest it until the frosts in February or later if our winter is mild.
Growing: Don’t let it dry out! As a leafy vegetable with a shallow root system, it requires moist soil. Straw or compost will help insulate the soil and maintain moisture. Monitor it to make sure it is moist but not waterlogged in the place you plant it in.
Watering: Arugula requires well-watered soil, depending on your soil type, water it once or twice a week. The roots of arugula are shallow, so covering with mulch is helpful to maintain soil moisture.
Pest and Disease Control: Arugula can be susceptible to leaf eating bugs such as grasshoppers, use neem oil if you begin seeing signs of pests eating the leaves.
Harvesting and Storage: Arugula leaves can be harvested frequently, start cutting the lower leaves first. Look for the leaves to be about 4-6 inches long. After it bolts, a well-watered flower offers a sweet balance to the bitterness of the leaves. Try both! The plant is completely edible.
Container Growing: Provide it 4-6 hours of sunlight and it will grow in any container. Make sure soil is moist but not wet.
Notes on Varieties
Rocket Arugula: Bold and peppery, can be harvested young as a microgreen.
Amaranth is an attractive plant that loves the summer sun in Arizona. It attracts birds and pollinators to your garden. Amaranth will return year after year on its own. Both the leaves and the seeds are edible.
Growing: Amaranth is an easy to care for plant. It prefers full sun and regular water. Mulching on the top of your soil will help retain moisture in your garden or pot.
Watering: Water your Amaranth deeply 2-3 times a week.
Pest and Disease Control: Amaranth is a resilient plant, so you can be pretty hands off in this department. Avoid overhead watering to prevent common diseases.
Harvesting and Storage: The leaves are best eaten fresh, similar to spinach. Harvest when they are still small and cut the leaves off at the stem. Harvest the heads of seeds when they begin to dry out and then hang them over something to catch the seeds while they finish drying. You can also place the seed bunch in a paper bag to dry out.
Container Growing: Amaranth is a great option for container growing due to its decorative appearance. Give it something to climb up and place an olla in your pot.
Notes on Varieties:
Love Lies Bleeding: A very attractive dark red variety with blooms that trail down like rope.
Red Leaf: Also known as Chinese Spinach, the red/green leaves are great to cook with or eat fresh. Harvest when young
Basil is a staple in any garden for its wide variety of culinary applications. It also grows well in containers for flexible placement.
Growing: Requires full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Well-drained soil with added compost improves growth. Space plants about 12 inches apart. The more sun they get, the more aromatic their leaves become. They also partner well with tomato plants.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mulching around the plant will help the soil retain moisture longer.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids and whiteflies. A strong spray of the hose in the morning or at night will help with this. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will also solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Downy mildew and root rot are common diseases. To prevent these diseases, make sure you are not over watering the plant and there is enough air flow and circulation to prevent the downy mildew. Remove parts of plants with the mildew and throw them away. Do not compost them.
Fertilizing: Compost is the ideal fertilizer for basil. If the older leaves begin to yellow, the plant may be nitrogen deficient and need a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar). If using a fertilizer apply at half the recommended rate for vegetables.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest leaves when plants have reached 6 to 8 inches tall. You can remove individual leaves or whole stems. If using stems, cut just above a pair of leaves. By removing flowers, you encourage additional leaf growth. Leaves and flowers pop up in groups of three. If you remove the middle one, the plant is encouraged to keep growing wider, instead of producing flowers and seeds. Flowers can reduce the flavor of the plant so continue to pinch them off.
Basil can be stored in a glass of water at room temperature. Refrigeration can cause the leaves to wilt. However, you can freeze basil leaves in olive oil or dry them out for long term storage.
Container Growing: Basil will grow best in a container at least 5 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Additional Info: Basil is frost sensitive, but if you protect it in the winter, it can grow year-round in Phoenix. It is also grown well in a container or inside if you give it enough sunlight every day.
Notes on Varieties
Italian Large Leaf Basil: This is a popular herb known for its broad, aromatic leaves and sweet, slightly spicy flavor. It is widely used in Italian cuisine and thrives in warm climates with plenty of sunlight.
Holy (Tulsi): Green leaf variety with purple flowers. Has a unique, spicy smell. Best used for teas and medicinal uses.
African Blue: African Blue Basil has a milder flavor than other basil and is excellent as a tea leaf and a pollinator for your garden. Because it never goes to seed, its attractive flowers can last until Arizona’s frost months, and the leaves can be encouraged with mild nitrogen fertilizer application.
Purple Ruffles: Adds a splash of color to your garden with delicious purple leaves and fragrant pink flowers.
Amethyst: Similar to Italian basil in spice and pepper taste, but with red leaves and purple flowers.
Cardinal: This a beautiful ornamental variety to attract pollinators to your garden. Has dark red flowers and the leaves taste like cinnamon and cloves.
Sweet Thai: Sweet basil, common in Thai dishes. Has green leaves with edible purple flowers.
Genovese: Common sweet basil with large leaves. This is a variety of Italian basil that grows up to 2ft tall. Used commonly in pesto. Can be grown in a container as well.
Beans are a versatile staple plant for your garden. In Phoenix they are summer crops that can cover your garden soil and restore nutrients if you choose not to harvest the produce. They are also a good option if you are following the three sisters (beans, corn, squash) growing combination. Bush beans need 2-3’ of space and produce a concentrated harvest.
Growing: Plan for at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. They prefer well-draining soil and no fertilizer is recommended for these plants.
Watering: Water deeply once a week to allow the soil to dry in between waterings. Pay attention to the soil during hot/cold spells to avoid under/over watering. Avoid getting the leaves wet.
Pest and Disease Control: Avoid too much water for them as this can cause disease; they are susceptible to root rot. You may also see aphids, spider mites, or bean beetles. Pick off the beetles and toss them away if they appear. If your micro-climate is thriving, your natural predators should take care of them! Use neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves to combat most pests.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest the beans regularly to encourage more growth! Bush beans are typically ready when they are about the size of a pen. Twist the bean off the vine.
Container Growing: Bush beans can be grown in containers, plant them in at least 5 gallons of well-draining soil. Use a moisture meter to be careful not to over water and consider using an olla to balance soil moisture.
Notes on Varieties:
Amethyst Bean: Attractive purple bean, delicious raw or cooked, will turn green when cooked.
Tepary Bean: Tepary is a native Sonoran variety that thrives in Phoenix summers. The beans are high in protein and fiber.
Dragon Tongue: Heirloom variety green bean. 60 days to maturity. Turns a beautiful purple and yellow/white color. When cooked they will turn green. Harvest when they are 6-8 inches for fresh eating.
Beans are a versatile staple plant for garden. In Phoenix they function well for summer crops and can restore nutrients to soil if you choose not to harvest the produce. They are also a good option if you are following the three sisters (beans, corn, squash) growing combination. They restore nutrients to soils and are a good option through October when the weather is still warm.
Growing: Plan for at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Plant pole beans on a trellis or something they can grow up because they can get very tall in the right conditions. Beans prefer well-draining soil, but don’t require compost. They will improve if you can provide this however. No fertilizer is recommended for these plants.
Watering: Water deeply once a week to allow the soil to dry in between waterings. Pay attention to the soil during hot/cold spells to avoid under/over watering. Avoid getting the leaves wet.
Pest and Disease Control: Avoid too much water for them as this can cause disease; they are susceptible to root rot. You may also see aphids, spider mites, or bean beetles. Pick off the beetles and toss them away if they appear. If your micro-climate is thriving, your natural predators should take care of them! Use neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves to combat most pests.
Harvesting and Storage: They are ready to harvest in about 75 days, or when the beans are 10-12 inches long. Harvest the beans regularly to encourage more growth! Pick them while they are slender so the beans inside are still small. Twist the bean off the vine. For a more technical variation, you can try harvesting them young and preparing them as edamame!
Container Growing: Pole beans can be grown in containers, plant them in at least 5 gallons of well-draining soil 3-4 inches apart and give them something to climb at least 6-8 feet tall. Use a moisture meter to be careful not to over water.
Notes on Varieties:
Python: High producing green Asian variety.
Seychelle: Common green bean, high producer.
Growing: Requires full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Well drained soil with added compost improves growth. Space plants about 18 inches apart.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mulching around the plant will help the soil retain moisture longer. Avoid overhead watering.
Pest and Disease Control: Generally peppers are naturally free of pests and disease, but they can occasionally be attacked.
Fertilizing: Use a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar), don’t overfertilize to encourage fruit production
Harvesting and Storage: Peppers are best stored on the counter and eaten quickly after harvesting. Use scissors or pruners to cut the peppers off.
Container Growing: Peppers will grow in a container at least 5 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Notes on Varieties:
Baron: High yield, sweet peppers. Turns from green to red as it matures, usually around 65 days.
Green Machine: High yield green variety, medium fruit.
Purple Beauty: Fast growing variety that produces 3” purple peppers which mature to green when not harvested early.
King Arthur: 59 to 70 days to maturity depending on if you want green or red peppers. Letting the pepper stay on the bush longer will produce a red bell pepper.
Growing: Requires full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Well draining soil with added compost improves growth. Give the plants about 18-24 inches of space to grow.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mulching around the plant will help the soil retain moisture longer. Avoid overhead watering. If the eggplant is under watered the eggplants can be small and bitter.
Pest and Disease Control: Eggplants are susceptible to aphids and whiteflies. If you notice any on the plant you can spray the plants early in the morning with a strong hose. Other pests include hornworms, cucumber beetles and flea beetles. Monitor closely and remove by hand.
Fertilizing: Eggplants need balanced fertilizer of 10-10-10. You can also use a fish emulsion if you prefer organic options.
Harvesting and Storage: Eggplants are ready to harvest when they are firm and heavy for size. The skin is also shiny. Smaller eggplants are more tender and have the best taste. Use within a couple days of harvest.
Container Growing: Eggplants grow well in containers; this gives you the flexibility to move them out of pest areas. They need at least a 5-gallon container, preferably a taller one to give the roots plenty of space to grow.
Notes on Varieties
Black Beauty: Traditional large purple oval eggplants that blow the grocery store options out of the water.
Lil’ Fingers: This high producing variety grows long, slender, purple eggplants.
Fairytale: Purple and white mini variety. Pick them when they are 2-4” long.
Galine: 65 days to maturity, high yielding plant with fruits 6-7 inches long. Fruits are a dark purple, and bell shaped.
Borage is a beautiful pollen attractant for your garden that will draw bees, butterflies, and many helpful predators for your winter leafy garden greens. In addition to its purple flowers, it is a medicinal plant. You can use its leaves for a variety of purposes.
Growing: If you protect Borage from frost with a cloth covering, it will generally weather other Arizona temperatures. Plant in the ground from the late fall through January. It prefers full sun environments. It does not require additional fertilizer.
Watering: Borage is a tough plant, the more water you give it, the larger it will become. It can tolerate neglect, even when planted 4-5 feet from other water intensive plants.
Pest and Disease Control: In Arizona’s environment, Borage is generally pest resistant.
Harvesting and Storage: Picking flowers encourages the plant to grow more and small leaves have the best flavor, so start picking this plant early! The leaves and flowers taste like cucumbers so they can be used in drinks, salads, sandwiches or even desserts.
Container Growing: Borage does best in 8in containers or deeper.
Broccoli is a good plant for growing in Phoenix’s winter months because it prefers cooler weather and is frost-hardy.
Growing: Broccoli loves sun and cooler temperatures, and will be easy to grow if you pick the right spot for it. Pick a spot that gets at least 6 hours of sun. Make sure the soil is rich in compost or organic matter so the plant has lots of food to grow big broccoli bunches! The seedling may be floppy, so plant it a little deeper than the pot level to give it some support. Feed it once a month with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10.
Watering: Make sure the soil stays moist, but not wet. Don’t get the heads wet while it is growing and add some mulch at the base to help the soil retain moisture.
Pest and Disease Control: Broccoli attract pests such as aphids, cabbage loopers, and cabbageworms. Keep an eye on them and use Neem oil or cover them with nets to help combat pests.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest it when the main shoot is full and tight, but before any yellow flowers appear. Harvest it in the morning. Trim the main bud about 5 inches down and smaller buds will appear, which you can harvest again. They won’t get as big as the first, main bud that appeared. Dry the broccoli and store it in the fridge.
Container Growing: Ensure it has enough sunlight and space to grow. Broccoli likes about 12-20 inches of space and temperatures of about 50-70°.
Varieties
Green Sprouting Calabrese: 60-90 days until harvest. Grows a large main head and lots of side shoots.
Waltham 29: 90 days to harvest. Central head with side shoots as well. Can handle some frost.
Brussel sprouts are a cool weather plant in Arizona as they need about 100 cool days to mature. If the weather permits, the flavor of your home-grown Brussel Sprouts will outshine anything you find at the store. These veggies are high in vitamins and protein and are excellent sides in a variety of preparations.
Growing: Brussel sprouts have shallow roots and are easily damaged. Quickly and gently pull any weeds that appear to free them from competition for nutrients. Feed them once every other week with fish emulsion. Planting them outside in between October and January is ideal in Arizona. The warmer the temperature gets, the more bitter they become. They need compost rich, fertile soil and prefer plenty of winter sun. Staking the Brussel sprouts when young will help if it is a windy spring since these plants can grow over 2ft tall.
Watering: Keep them moist and water at the bast of the plant. Put about 2-3” of compost or mulch on top of the soil to help keep them moist.
Pest and Disease Control: Brussel Sprouts are susceptible to Cutworms, Aphids, and Cabbage worms. If adult worms appear, pick them off and throw them away then treat with Neem oil spray on the tops and bottoms of leaves. Neem oil also prevents Aphids, but if you have ladybugs or other predators, they should take care of them.
Harvesting and Storage: Brussel sprouts require patience, once the plant reaches about 2.5 feet tall it is ready to harvest. Pay attention to when leaves start to yellow, this means they are reaching maturity, cut back on their watering at this point. Twist the sprouts off to harvest. If you only plan to harvest the plant you have, twist the top off at around 90 days to force the plant to develop the sprouts; then wait 10 days to harvest. Brussel sprouts are best eaten fresh, but you can store them up to a week in the fridge.
Container Growing: Brussel sprouts are picky growers in Arizona’s climate but can grow in containers. You will have to be careful to maintain moisture and be vigilant for pests. 5-gallon pots are preferable; ensure they are fed with fish emulsion as potted plants deplete nutrients quicker than gardens. Pot growing allows you to move them to cooler/sunnier areas in your yard depending on Arizona’s weather.
Also known as green onions, bunching onions are an easy plant that you can harvest repeatedly throughout the entire growth cycle and add to any dish in your kitchen. Nothing beats shopping in your own garden!
Growing: Bunching Onions need 6-8 hours of sunlight per day and well-draining soil. If you have clay soil in your yard, mix in planting soil and a little sand in your growing area. They generally don’t require extra fertilizer, but if you do choose to fertilize, fish emulsion or blood meal are good organic choices. If you can, plant them with compost and cover your soil with mulch or straw to help retain moisture.
Watering: Don’t let them dry out, but maintain consistent moisture. A water meter will help if you have them in a pot. Don’t let the soil dry out deeper than 1”.
Pest and Disease Control: Onions are generally pest and disease free naturally!
Harvesting and Storage: The younger the onions are when you harvest them, the sweet they are, but green onions are generally mild throughout their lives. Clip them close to the soil and they will continue to regrow. They are best fresh cut, but can be stored up to a week in the fridge.
Container Growing: Green Onions grow great in containers, even on your kitchen shelf if you have sunlight for easy meal additions. Choose a container that is at least 6” deep.
Companion plants like spinach and strawberries do wonderful nearby.
Variety Specific:
Bunching White Spear Onions – 60 days to maturity, heat resistant, and tall green onions
Deep Purple – 60 days to maturity. You can hill this variety to force the leaves higher up the plant, getting a larger edible portion.
If you think store-bought cabbage lacks flavor, you definitely need to give it a go in your own garden. There are many different types, experiment with different varieties such as Pak Choi and Napa Cabbage to add a flavorful and nutritional boost to your meals!
Growing: Plant your transplants between September and January for best results as cabbage does not form a head if temperatures are too warm. Pak Choi and Napa Cabbage are more tolerant of heat. It prefers full sun, so don’t be afraid to give it as much of Arizona’s winter daylight as you can. They like to grow big so give them around 2 feet of space on each side. Fertilize at least once or twice a month with fish emulsion fertilizer.
Watering: Cabbage are water-intensive plants, so be sure to keep them watered regularly. Compost in the soil and mulch on top will help you maintain moisture. Bury some ollas in your garden next to plants like these as well!
Pest and Disease Control: The biggest problem with cabbage is that they attract pests. These includes, aphids, cutworms, cabbage worms, and snails. The best way to combat these is a combination of planting other helpful plants, Neem oil, and diligence. Nasturtiums are a delicious edible flower that can grow prolifically if you’re not careful and will help your cabbage by attracting pests to itself while it attracts pollinators; onions and radishes are also helpful. Stay on the watch, if you see snails or caterpillars appear, pick them off and throw them away then apply neem oil to the tops and bottoms of leaves.
Harvesting and Storage: You can harvest cabbage in two ways. One, for its leaves as it grows, similar to harvesting lettuce. After it has 5-7 leaves, you can begin cutting the outermost leaves. Alternately, waiting for it to mature to a head can take 45-100 days depending on the variety. Cabbage has a long storage life in the fridge.
Container Growing: Cabbage can be successful in containers. They need at least a 5-gallon container and plenty of sun. Adding an olla to container cabbage is very helpful to maintain soil moisture.
Variety Specific Information:
Ruby Perfection Cabbage – 85 days to maturity and heads can weigh 3.5 pounds on average.
Red Pac Choi – 45 days to maturity, slow to bolt
Napa Cabbage – 48 days to maturity, 9” tall heads, slow to bolt
Golden Acre – Heirloom variety 65 -75 days to maturity. Sweet tasting and fast growing. Is a compact grower.
Cantaloupe and Honeydew are excellent summer cover crops for Phoenix gardens.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sun daily and well-draining soil. Spacing should be 3-4 ft apart. Providing compost for cantaloupe is crucial, the more organic matter you have in your soil the sweeter your fruit will be.
Watering: Water deeply twice a week, which will allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. If the leaves droop during the day but perk back up at night the plants are receiving enough water. However, if they do not perk back up at night you need to increase the watering frequency and cover with shade cloth. Once the fruits begin to appear, increase watering to encourage their development.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield.
Shade cloth will help your cantaloupe make it through the summer in Arizona, cover them until temperatures fall below 100°.
Pest Control: Common pests include: Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Pick adults off and throw them away, then spray with neem oil on the top and bottom of leave. If you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will help take care of it for you. Hooray!
Diseases: Cantaloupe can susceptible to powdery or downy mildew, but many varieties have natural resistance to these diseases.
Fertilizer: Nitrogen fertilizer is helpful after the vines develop runners
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest time varies for cantaloupe varieties. Most are ready when they come off the vine with a slight tug, but some varieties such as honeydew need to be harvested when they are younger and cut off the vine. Smell your fruit! If it smells sweet, it’s time. Store melons in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks.
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a well-draining container at least 15 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Notes on Varieties:
Primo: Produces large melons and is resistant to powdery mildew.
Hale’s Best: Early producer, sweet fruit with a strong cantaloupe smell.
Halona: Very early producer with great flavor and natural disease resistance.
Green Honeydew: This variety likes to climb and produces 5-6lb fruits with pale green flesh. Once fruit appears, support them with a sling (you can use an old onion bag for this) so they don’t fall off.
Casaba Melon is an heirloom variety, grown for generations in Arizona. Hopi Casaba is known for its oval shape, wrinkled yellow rind, and sweet, creamy-white flesh. Santo Domingo has orange, green, or white flesh that can be smooth, ribbed, or nettled. It has a unique honey-like flavor and is a drought-tolerant melon that thrives in warm climates. Works with lime, salt and chili seasoning. Can also be used in desserts and fruit salads.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sun daily and well-draining soil (sandy or loamy). Spacing should be 2-4 ft. apart.
Watering: Water deeply twice a week, which will allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. If the leaves droop during the day but perk back up at night the plants are receiving enough
water. However, if they do not perk back up at night you need to increase the watering frequency. Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield. If you would like sweeter fruit, reduce watering as the fruit ripens.
Pest Control: Common pests include: Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Diseases: Powdery mildew is a common disease and can look like white spots or patches on a plant. To avoid this, space plants far enough apart to provide good air circulation If you have it, remove the infected plant parts and throw them in the trash, do not compost.
Fertilizer: They prefer a 10-10-10 fertilizer at planting. Add compost throughout the growing season as well.
Harvesting and Storage: Your fruit should be ripe in 90-100 days, but look for the rind to turn golden yellow and the blossom end to soften. Smell your fruit! If it smells sweet, it’s time. Cut the fruit off with a sharp knife and enjoy! Store melons in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a container at least 15 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Cauliflower prefers temperatures around 60 degrees, so move it outside after temps drop below 75 during the day.
Growing: Plant them at least 18 inches apart, and if the seedling is leggy bury it a little deeper to give it some support. Make sure the soil is rich in compost or organic matter and they get 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. If the cauliflower head begins to spread out, use a clothespin to clip a leaf over the cauliflower head, but watch out for pests that may move in to this extra shelter. This also helps the colored cauliflower to stay colorful and not become sun bleached. Celery is a great companion plant for cauliflower. Fertilize monthly with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10).
Watering: Don’t let your cauliflower dry out between waterings! Keep the soil moist and avoid getting water on the leaves and bud, but don’t let water pool around the plant. Soak the ground to a depth of 6 inches around the plant and provide mulch to help retain the moisture.
Pest and Disease Control: Aphids, whiteflies, and caterpillars are common pests. Neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves or your natural predators are good for combating these.
Harvesting and Storage: Cauliflower are usually ready in about 80 days, or when the head is 6-8 inches in diameter. If the head begins to separate and clipping a leaf for coverage doesn’t work, harvest it immediately. Cut the stem below the first couple of leaves with a sharp knife, try to do it in the morning. Store it in the fridge after cleaning and drying. Smaller offshoot will emerge below the main head. These are edible as well.
Container Growing: Cauliflower is best grown outdoors in a garden.
Variety Specific Information:
Violetta Italia – Light purple in color and an Italian Heirloom. When cooked, the color turns green instead of purple. It takes 80-90 days after germination to harvest. Looks and tastes like a cross between broccoli and cauliflower.
Twister – The heads are big and heavy with large wrapping leaves, create a good color and quality of vegetable. 62 days to maturity.
Homegrown celery has a much different flavor than you will get from store bought celery. It is more intense and flavorful. It grows a darker green than the stalks you see in the store as well. The best part of growing celery is it is easy to harvest a few stalks as you need them and the plant keep growing.
Growing: Plant celery 8-10 inches apart. Celery prefers rich soil. Amend the soil with compost or other organic matter at planting. Also, fertilize once a month with a fish emulsion.
Watering: Soil must be kept consistently moist, but not soggy. When celery dries out it bolts and becomes bitter. Placing mulch around the base of celery helps the soil to stay moist longer. If you notice hollow stems, you are not watering the plant enough.
Pest and Disease Control: Aphids, leaf miners, cutworms, slugs and snails are common pests for celery. Aphids can be sprayed off with a strong current from the hose. Natural predators, like lady bugs also help control pests. Hand pick any slugs or snails you see. Neem oil can be sprayed on the tops and bottoms of leaves as well.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest celery as needed once the plant reaches the desired height. If you notice the celery becoming bitter, it is time to harvest the entire plant by cutting it at soil level. Celery stores best in the fridge wrapped in foil or submerged in a sealed container with water. It can also be frozen, dehydrated, or freeze-dried.
Container Growing: Celery does well in containers. Keep the soil moist or use an olla to prevent the celery from becoming stringy. Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season, using the fertilizer at half strength.
Variety Specific Information:
Tango: 90 days to maturity, performs well in less ideal growing conditions
Giant Pascal: 110 days to maturity, can reach 2ft tall, more golden color than green
Merengo: 80-90 days to maturity. Grows into tall dark green stalks that are very flavorful. This variety can be used in fresh eating, juicing, and cooking.
Peppers are an excellent warm season plant that are easy to grow and can become a perennial in your garden. Whether you’re into sweet bell peppers, mild poblanos, or spicy jalapeños and habañeros, growing your own peppers will ruin store bought peppers for life.
Growing: Plant them in well-draining, compost rich soil. Plant the seedling deeply, even right up to the bottom leaves as the buried stem will turn into roots. They need 6-8 hours of sunlight a day, but in Phoenix they prefer partial shade. Morning sun and afternoon shade is the best growing condition for peppers and you may need to consider a shade cloth to keep them from getting sunscald in sunnier spots. Their branches are brittle so give them a support system to grow on as they get larger such as tomato cages.
Watering: Peppers have deep root systems but don’t like soggy soil. Water them deeply and consistently but make sure your soil drains the water quickly. They are thirsty plants, so pay attention to soil moisture during the summer.
Pest and Disease Control: Over-watering is the biggest cause of disease in pepper plants and they are naturally pest resistant. Aphids and Spider mites are the most common pests, you can combat them with neem oil sprayed on the tops and bottoms of leaves; if you’re on your way to a thriving micro-climate, let your natural predators do the work for you.
Fertilizing: Use a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) during their early life but once the flowers begin to appear switch to a fertilizer with higher P and K numbers such as 2-15-15.
Harvesting and Storage: Regular harvesting encourages your pepper plant to produce more, experiment picking your peppers at different stages of growth to see what you like best. Young peppers will be milder while the flavors and spice will be more developed in older peppers.
Container Growing: Peppers are a great option for container growing as this allows you flexibility to move them around during the very hot or cold months. Make sure to have well-draining soil that is at least 12” deep and a support system for them as they grow bigger.
Notes on Varieties
Anaheim: High yield, dependable medium heat. Fully mature peppers are 6-8” long.
Poblano: Called Ancho when dried. Pick when green for mild heat/flavor or wait until red for medium-hot heat.
Orange Habañero: Mature peppers are extremely hot with a fruity, citrus like flavor. Prefers sandy soil kept moist.
Chimayo Melon is a Spanish heirloom in the cantaloupe family from northern New Mexico. It produces melons with an orange flesh for a sweet summertime treat!
Growing: Cantaloupe prefer warmer temperatures and can be planted through July in Phoenix. Requires 6-8 hours of full sun daily and well-draining soil with a lot of organic matter. They like to sprawl so try to give them at least 3 feet of space.
Watering: Water deeply and allow about 2 inches of soil to dry before watering again. If the leaves droop during the day but perk back up at night the plants are receiving enough water. However, if they do not perk back up at night you need to increase the watering frequency. Overwatering will reduce the sweetness and flavor of your fruit.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield. If you would like sweeter fruit, reduce watering as the fruit ripens.
Pest Control: Common pests include: Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Diseases: Powdery mildew is a common disease and can look like white spots or patches on a plant. To avoid this, space plants far enough apart to provide good air circulation. If it appears, remove the infected plant parts and throw them in the trash, do not compost.
Fertilizer: They prefer a 10-10-10 fertilizer at planting. Add compost throughout the growing season as well.
Harvesting and Storage: If the fruit is smooth, it is not ready to harvest. Once the veins or netting becomes rough and the stem easily separates, the melon is ready. Be patient! Smell your fruit! If it smells sweet, it’s time. They won’t get any sweeter after they are picked. Uncut melons can be stored up to 2 weeks in your fridge.
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a container at least 15 gallons or larger and will need room to sprawl, or something to climb and support for the fruit. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Chinese Chives…also knowns as Garlic Chives
Growing: Requires full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Well drained soil with added compost improves growth. Space plants about 12-18 inches apart.
Plant in an area with afternoon shade if possible. They need full sun but the afternoon sun can be too intense for them.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mulching around the plant will help the soil retain moisture longer. Avoid overhead watering and overwatering. Root rot will kill the plants.
Pest and Disease Control: There are not many pests of Chinese Chives.
Fertilizing: If possible, a soil with organic matter mixed in like compost is enough fertilizer to keep the plant going.
Harvesting and Storage: You can harvest Chinese Chives when they reach 12 inches tall. Cut leaves at the base with scissors and do not take more than 1/3 of the plant at any one time.
Container Growing: Chinese Chives are great for containers or raised beds
At End of Season: when the plant begins to yellow and die back, cut it back to soil level and top it with mulch or compost. You can also divide the plant at this time.
Chives include a variety of names such as leeks and garlic chives. Staro chives have a flavor closer to an onion and are great fresh cut or frozen. They are a useful plant that thrives in Arizona’s spring for harvesting and eating, as well as being an excellent pollinator if you wait for their purple flowers in late Summer. After temperatures cool, if you cut them down to ground level and cover them, they will return the following year.
Growing: Chives prefer lots of sun, but will also tolerate afternoon shade once the temperatures rise in Phoenix. Plant them in a sunny spot. They need organic rich, well-draining soil, make sure to plant them with some compost. If you have organic rich soil, they shouldn’t require additional fertilizer, but if they struggle feed them with a little nitrogen fertilizer.
Watering: Give them approximately 1 inch of water per week. They don’t need much as they are susceptible to root rot unless temperatures are hot.
Pest and Disease Control: Chives are generally pest free but are susceptible to root rot. Don’t overwater them!
Harvesting and Storage: Cut chives close to the base for immediate use in meals or for freezing. The flower stalks are also edible if you cut them before the flower opens.
Container Growing: Chives grow very well in containers because they clump together. Ensure they are moist, but do not overwater as this can easily lead to disease. Use a moisture meter and check close to base of plants before watering.
Variety Specific Information:
Staro – 75 days to maturity, edible purple flowers, mild sweet flavor, thick green leaves
Garlic – Leaves and flower buds have a garlic flavor with a hint of sweetness. Great for stir fries, scrambled eggs, soups, and as marinades for meat. Drought tolerant.
Clemson Spineless Okra is a popular variety known for its smooth, spineless pods and high productivity. It thrives in warm climates and is widely used in Southern cuisine, stir-fries, and soups.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sunlight daily and well-draining soil. Space plants 12-18 inches apart.
Watering: Water to a dept of 8-12 inches deep one or two times per week. Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids, stink bugs, and flea beetles. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Powdery mildew is a common disease and can be prevented with enough air flow and spacing between plants. If you have it, remove the infected plant parts and throw them in the trash, do not compost.
Fertilizing: A 10-10-10 fertilizer can be applied when planting, but is not necessary. Add compost every 3-4 weeks throughout the growing season. Quick easy fertilizer is crushed up egg shells mixed into the soil.
Additional Info: Can prune off the lower leaves to increase stem growth and your okra harvest.
Harvesting and Storage: You should begin to see harvestable okra in 50-60 days. Harvest the pods when they are 3-4 inches long (about the size of your thumb) and tender, using a knife or pruners. As they get longer, they become fibrous and difficult to eat. You’ll be able to tell if they are too fibrous by feeling them. If they are harder, then they have grown too long to be edible. Harvest daily to keep the okra smaller.
Fresh okra will store in your fridge for up to a week. Store in a paper bag if possible. Okra is idea for pickling whole, frying, or roasting.
Container Growing: Okra grows best in a container at least 5 gallons or larger. You will need to water your okra more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Crimson Sweet Watermelon is a popular variety known for its large, round or oblong fruits with sweet, bright red flesh. It has a tough, light green rind with dark green stripes and produces fruits averaging 15-25 lbs.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sun per day. Should be spaced 3-5 feet apart from other plants to allow ample growth. Can plant in a raised bed and let grow along the ground next to the bed. As your fruit begin to grow, place cardboard below them to protect from pests and rotting.
Watering: Keep soil moist, but not watered logged. A deep watering two to three times a week should be plenty. Let the top couple of inches dry out between waterings. To improve sweetness of the fruit, stop watering in the last week before harvest. Providing mulch will help maintain the soil moisture.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids, squash beetles, pill bugs, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Powdery mildew is a common disease and can look like white spots or patches on a plant. To avoid this, space plants far enough apart to provide good air circulation. If you have it, remove the infected plant parts and throw them in the trash, do not compost.
Fertilizing: Can use a 10-10-10 fertilizer while the vine is growing. Once it begins flowering, switch to a flowering fertilizer or one that is higher in phosphorous and potassium, with a low amount of nitrogen.
Harvesting and Storage: Fruit should ripen in 80-90 days. It will be ready to harvest when the underside of the fruit turns creamy yellow, the rind turns dull, the tendril near the fruit stem has withered, and a deep, hollow sound when tapped. Cut fruits from the vine using a sharp knife or pruners.
Watermelons can be stored in a cool, dry place up to 2 weeks. Once cut, refrigerate and eat within 3-5 days.
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a container at least 15 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Additional Info: Can juice watermelon and freeze it for future use in lemonade and other beverages.
Growing: Cucamelons are a fast-growing vine and enjoy full sun with some shade in the afternoon. Place them on a trellis or netting to support their vines. They love warm, humid weather; plant them during the monsoons in Phoenix. Once they reach approximately 8 feet start pinching back the growing tips to encourage the plant to produce fruit and more branches. After frost temperatures arrive, trim what is above the soil. If you leave the roots and cover them with mulch, you’ll have a good chance of them re-growing for a couple years.
Watering: Water deeply and regularly to keep the soil moist, but avoid waterlogging the soil so their roots don’t rot.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield.
Pest Control: Cucamelons are naturally resistant to many pests. You may see aphids, slugs, and pickle worms. Neem oil is a good solution if you spot any of these. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Diseases: Watch out for powdery mildew, downy mildew, and angular leaf spot. Cucamelons are generally disease resistant, but inspect your plants regularly.
Fertilizer: Fertilize once or twice while they are growing with a high potassium fertilizer. We recommend 0-0-60.
Harvesting and Storage: Cucamelons will start to produce fruit in approximately 65-75 days. Harvest them when them when they are about the size of small grapes, while they are still firm and green. Picking them will encourage the plant to produce more fruit! You can store them for about a week in the fridge.
Container Growing: Cucamelons grow best in at least a 5-gallon container and will still need something to climb.
Notes on Varieties:
Mexican Sour Gherkin: Small 1” fruits that taste like citrus and cucumber.
Growing: Cucumbers can be tricky to grow in Phoenix; the trick is finding the right spot in your garden and watering is critical. The fruit can turn bitter if growing conditions aren’t correct. They require consistent moisture and morning sun with shade beginning in late morning through the afternoon. Give them a trellis or netting to grow up. Once flowers begin to appear, fertilize with granular or water-soluble fertilizer.
Watering: Cucumbers are thirsty plants! Water frequently and deeply at the base of the plant with drip or soaker hose.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. If you grow them near cilantro or dill you can promote beneficial insects.
Powdery mildew is a common disease and can be prevented with enough air flow and spacing between plants.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest cucumbers in the morning when temperatures are cool; cut the stem or twist them to break off the fruit. One trick after harvesting is to immediately put them in cold water to disperse heat from inside the fruit. Store them in the fridge either wrapped in a dry paper towel or in your crisper drawer.
Container Growing: If you grow your cucumbers in a container, use an olla to help keep the moisture level consistent.
Variety Specific Information:
Homemade Pickles Cucumber – 55 days to maturity with a 4 – 5 ft vine. Can harvest between 1 ½ – 6 inches. They make great cucumbers for pickles, hence their name. High yields on this plant as well. Will do well in a container
Lemon Cucumber – 67 days to maturity. Round yellow fruit that you want to pick at 1 ½ inches for pickles and 2 inches for eating fresh. Vigorous growers. Harvest when skin is pale yellow. If it is bright, then the fruit is over ripened.
Super Max – 45 days to maturity, typical cucumber look and shape. Fruits with grow 3-4 inches and are vigorous growers. Great for pickles
Marketmore 76 – 65 days to maturity. Have your typical look of a cucumber. Open pollinated so never sure what the seeds will be next year if seed saving. Disease resistant. Fruits are 8 – 9 inches.
Dill is easy to grow, so easy that it may take over your garden! It is a flavorful addition to food, great for pickling, and attracts a host of helpful insects to your garden.
Growing: Dill has a long tap root, so handle it carefully when transplanting. Choose a spot with full sun. Cover the soil with mulch to help retain soil moisture.
Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist, but not waterlogged.
Pest and Disease Control: Aphids may appear, but you can let your ladybugs take care of these or wash the plant with a strong hose spray of water to remove them.
Harvesting and Storage: You can start harvesting your dill when it has 4-5 sets of leaves. Use it when it’s fresh for best results, but it can also be dried, dehydrated or frozen in a little oil.
Container Growing: Dill also grows well in containers but make sure the pot has at least 12 inches of soil and is well draining. Provide it with 10-11 hours of light per day.
Squash is an easy to grow plant that likes to sprawl in log vines or grow up a trellis or cage. If you don’t see pollinators like bees in your garden, you may need to consider manually pollinating flowers to produce fruit. Squash produces both male and female flowers, but having multiple plants is helpful.
Growing: Enrich your soil with compost and cover the top with mulch to maintain moisture. Plant them in an area that gets full sun. If you see the leaves wilt during the day but perk back up in the afternoon/evening, they are getting enough water. Squash require pollination to produce fruit, so other flowering herbs or plants are helpful to have in your garden.
Watering: Squash need deep, consistent watering. Less frequent watering can encourage them develop strong roots. See the tip above to help judge if your squash plant is getting enough water.
Pest and Disease Control: Squash bugs are a common pest for these plants; check the underside of leaves for their eggs and remove any adults you find. If a plant develops an infestation, it may necessary to remove it to prevent them from spreading to other squash plants.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest summer squash when they are young and still tender, usually 6-8 inches long. You can also harvest the flowers for eating!
Container Growing: Squash can grow well in containers, but ensure consistent moisture with an olla.
Fennel has a sweet, anise like flavor. It does well cooked in soups or eaten fresh in salads. You can also eat the flowers and seeds for a freshness while in the garden. The flowers grow in an umbrella shape, similar to dill. They attract many pollinators.
Growing: Fennel can be sensitive to root disturbance so be careful while transplanting and treat the seedlings with care. Fennel can grow large, so give them at least 1ft of space between other plants. The plants need full sun, but require shade in the afternoons to prevent premature bolting. Fennel can inhibit that growth of other plants, so it is best to plant it in an area away from the rest of your garden.
Watering: The soil needs to be consistently moist, but not soggy. Adding mulch will help maintain even moisture levels.
Fertilizing: Fennel needs a higher nitrogen fertilizer since it does not require as much phosphorus or potassium.
Pest and Disease Control: Aphids are common pest of fennel. However, if you let some of the fennel flower, it will attract lady bugs and lace wings which are predators of the aphids. You can also spray the fennel with a strong spray from the hose to knock the aphids to the ground. Giving enough space for air circulation around the plants will help reduce the chances of a fungal disease.
Harvesting and Storage: You can harvest the leaves of fennel once it has reached about a foot high. If you want the plant to keep growing, only remove a small portion of the leaves at a time. Once the bulbs have reached about the size of a baseball, you can harvest them. Use a sharp knife and cut the bulb at the base right next to the soil. More fennel can grow from the cuttings.
Container Growing: Fennel can grow in a container, but it needs to be large enough to accommodate the large bulb and taproot. Well-draining soil is a must.
Notes on Varieties:
Florence Fennel: This is the variety that will grow a bulb to be used as a vegetable in cooking.
Common Fennel: This variety is grown for is leaves and seeds.
Gourds are an ornamental vine that can also be a pest deterrent in your garden due to their strong smell. Some gourds can be eaten when they are very young or produce healthy seeds for roasting. Many also have practical uses that include shower scrubbers (Luffa Gourd), cleaning agents, and medicinal applications.
Growing: Gourds are an aggressive vining plant that grow similar to zucchini or watermelon. You can allow them to spread along on the ground or give them something to climb up. They need at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day.
Watering: Gourd plants need regular watering to get established but are extremely drought tolerant after that. Mulch at the base of plants will help the soil retain moisture and establish the plant. Once they are established water them deeply once a week. Most varieties will return year after year if you allow them to.
Pest and Disease Control: Gourds are susceptible to various pests, but they can be a sacrificial plant that will pull pests away from the rest of your garden. Cut off yellow leaves and spray with neem oil if pests appear in large numbers.
Harvesting and Storage: Gourds will store for a long time almost anywhere you place them. Storage depends on your planned use. Ornamental varieties can be stored where you display them. Luffa gourds can be left to dry out on the vine until you process them.
Container Growing: Gourds can be grown in pots at least 10 gallons or larger. They will need something to climb up and support for the fruits when they appear. Plant with an olla and mulch the top of the pot.
Notes on Varieties:
Buffalo Gourd: Native gourd to Arizona. Only edible when the gourds are young and can be prepared similarly to any other squash. Mature squash should not be eaten. These can also be ornamental, or used for making laundry and hand soap. Buffalo Gourds attract pollinators to the garden and can be a food source for native animals.
Birdhouse Gourd: These heirloom gourds are vigorous climbers and a great addition to the garden to help create shade up a trellis or a beautiful visual effect on a pergola. While the gourds are not edible, they can be clean out and used most commonly to make birdhouses. Other uses include bottles for carrying water, floating devices, musical instruments and much more!
Ground cherries are a tasty fruit and grow similar to tomatoes or tomatillos.
Growing: Ground Cherries will grow well in raised beds and prefer to sprawl or be supported similar to tomatoes. Give them at least 2-3 feet of spacing from other plants. Do not use high nitrogen fertilizer, if you do, they will only grow leaves.
Watering: Water them deeply at least twice a week with drip irrigation or an olla. If they have insufficient water, they will produce flowers but no fruit. Cover the ground with mulch to retain soil moisture and act as a sun shield.
Pest and Disease Control: Ground cherries are susceptible to pests. Keep an eye out for potato beetles, cutworms, cucumber beetles, and slugs/snails. To combat these pests, pick adults off and throw them away; spray Neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves.
Common diseases include Verticillium wilt and foliar diseases (especially during rainy and humid seasons). Supporting them so they can grow vertically will help them breath and reduce these diseases. If they appear, a baking soda spray will help.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvesting ground cherries is easy! In general, ripe fruit will simply fall off the plant. Their color will change to golden yellow or dark orange and the husk will become dry and papery. Test fruit on the vine carefully, if it falls off easily, it is ripe. Allow them to ripen further in their husk at room temperature. Harvest the fallen fruit frequently, or leave them to reseed future plants. They have a long shelf life if left in their husks.
Container Growing: Ground cherries grow well in a container by themselves, plant them deeply to encourage root growth and use a bottom watering container or an olla to keep soil moisture consistent.
Notes on Varieties:
Goldie: Sweet variety, high producer.
Cossack Pineapple: Yellow, ½” fruit that has a sweet pineapple flavor. Excellent in preserves and salads.
When people say you can’t grow anything during the summer in Arizona, we point them to Hibiscus. The flowers are beautiful and make an excellent pollinator for your summer garden, and the leaves are widely applied in medicinal uses.
Growing: Hibiscus loves full sun, but can benefit from afternoon shade in the hottest summer months. In some of the more ornamental varieties, their full color will only develop with lots of sun. They don’t like soggy soil, so make sure your soil drains quickly. Balanced fertilizer works best, if you give it too much Nitrogen it will only produce leaves. They can get very large if you allow them to, plan to trim or allow space accordingly.
Watering: Hibiscus prefer to be consistently moist, water every 2-3 days in the summer. Let the top 1-2” of soil dry before watering again.
Pest and Disease Control: Hibiscus are generally pest and disease resistant. Overwatering can be the greatest risk to their health.
Harvesting and Storage: Leaves can be harvested early and often. If you’re harvesting flowers,
Container Growing: Hibiscus is an excellent container plant, ensure the pot has a hole in the bottom and that soil is well draining to avoid overwatering. An olla can be helpful for maintaining healthy moisture levels.
Notes on Varieties:
Roselle: Stark white and red flowers with green leaves. Flowers have a similar taste to cranberry and can be harvested 7-10 after they bloom.
Growing: Requires full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Well drained soil with added compost improves growth. Space plants about 18 inches apart.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mulching around the plant will help the soil retain moisture longer. Avoid overhead watering.
Pest and Disease Control: Generally peppers are naturally free of pests and disease, but they can occasionally be attacked.
Fertilizing: Use a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10 or similar), don’t overfertilize to encourage fruit production
Harvesting and Storage: Peppers are best stored on the counter and eaten quickly after harvesting. Use scissor or pruners to cut the peppers off.
Container Growing: Jalapeno will grow in a container at least 5 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Kale is an easy to grow plant that will produce healthy leafy greens until summer arrives. It prefers the cooler temperatures of Winter and Spring in Phoenix.
Growing: Give Kale plants 12-18 inches of space to grow. Plants that are too close together will grow smaller and be more vulnerable to pests. Full sun (6-8 hours) is preferable for kale, but it will also tolerate partial shade. Kale loves a compost rich soil
Watering: Water evenly and consistently, don’t let them dry out!
Pest and Disease Control: A small number of aphids on kale is fine, these will attract other natural predators. If there are a lot of them, spray the tops and bottoms of leaves with Neem oil. Pick off any caterpillars you find and throw them away, Neem Oil can also be used to treat these. Growing onions or edible flowers like nasturtiums in the area will help deter pests on your kale.
Harvesting and Storage: Pick leaves when they’re about the size of your hand. Start with the outermost leaves and work your way up the stalk. Eat them fresh or store them in the fridge.
Container Growing: Kale is a great candidate for container gardening and can grow in pot sizes as small as 2 gallons. Make sure the soil is well-draining. Place it someplace convenient for quick salads and smoothies.
Notes on Varieties
Lacinato (Dinosaur) Kale: This variety gets its name from bumpy leaves that makes them look like dinosaur skin. It is best eaten young as the leaves can get tough the older they are.
Red Russian: A very attractive variety with tender green leaves and purple veins and stems. Works great in salads.
Kohlrabi is an Asian vegetable, similar to a turnip, and is packed with lots of healthy nutrients! It also grows fast compared to other plants. The edible bulb will grow above ground.
Growing: Kohlrabi doesn’t mind frost, so plant when temperatures fall below 75° in the fall. You can plant it later in the winter as well since it does well in temperatures down to 40°. It still needs 6 hours of sunlight per day, so pick a sunny spot. Kohlrabi prefers well composted soil rich in organic matter that is well draining. Most soil types in Phoenix are sand or clay, so treat your soil first to ensure best results.
Watering: Keep it moist so it doesn’t become woody. Mulch around the plant will help the root structure maintain moisture.
Pest and Disease Control: Kohlrabi is generally pest and disease free! If any do appear, spray the leaves with Neem oil on the top and bottom.
Harvesting and Storage: Kohlrabi is ready in 55-60 days, or when the bulb is about 2-3 inches around. Think golf to tennis ball size. If you wait too long, the bulb will become woody. Cut the bulbs just above the top of the soil. Separate the leaves from the bulb and store it in the fridge.
Container Growing: Because Kohlrabi prefers colder temperatures, it is usually not grown inside. If you are using a container outside, make sure it is at least 5 gallons and well-draining.
Leeks are a cool season crop in Phoenix. They are hard to find at the right time in the nurseries and can be picky about their growth. However, it is very rewarding growing leeks in the garden. They can be used in various recipes and add a bit extra to any dish.
Growing: Leeks are best planted in November, giving them enough time to mature before the heat starts in the spring. It usually takes leeks 120 -150 days to hit maturity. So, transplanting at the right time is important for their success. They grow best in 55–75 degree weather. They need full sun, at least 8 hours per day. Well-draining soil is a must.
Transplanting: Dig a hole 6 inches deep and put the leek into the hole. You only want a couple of inches showing above the soil. Do not pack the soil next to the plant, instead water the soil so it naturally fills back in the hole. As the leeks grow, mound soil up the stalks like you would do with potatoes.
Watering: Steady, consistent water is important. They do not do well if the soil dries out. If the leaves begin to yellow this means you have watered too much so reduce the frequency of your watering.
Fertilizing: Leeks need to be fertilized monthly with a general fertilizer, like 10-10-10. They are heavy feeders.
Pest and Disease Control: Leaf miners are a common pest of leeks. They cause visual damage, but do not impact the overall health of the plant unless the infestation is large. By removing the entire plant when harvesting, you can cut down on the leaf miner population.
Harvesting and Storage: You can harvest leeks at any size throughout the growing season when they are large enough to use. Leeks will bolt if it begins to warm up quickly. If you see a leek start to put out a flower, you can harvest that leek and use it before it becomes woody. Easing the leeks out of the dirt is important, otherwise they will break. Leeks can be frozen.
Container Growing: Leeks can grow in a pot that is 8 -12 inches deep so you have room to practice the hilling method. Plant the leeks 3 -4 inches apart.
Notes on Varieties: A
King Richard: The shanks can be up to a foot long depending on how much you hill the plants throughout the growing season. Can start to harvest at 75 days.
Lettuce grows well in the cooler temperatures of Arizona’s winter and fall through the frosts.
Growing: Your soil should be well draining soil you can keep it moist with waterlogging the plants. They prefer cooler soil so keep this in mind when choosing placement. Morning sun with afternoon shade is best. Fertilize every 2-3 weeks.
Watering: Water frequently enough to keep the soil moist.
Pest and Disease Control: Leaf eating bugs such as aphids or caterpillars are common pests, use neem oil to combat these. You can also plant cilantro, dill or flowers like alyssum around to promote natural predators.
Harvesting and Storage: You can harvest lettuce frequently beginning with the outer leaves. If harvesting the whole bunch, cut at the base. Refrigerate it after cutting to maintain crispness.
Container Growing: Lettuce will grow well in containers. Ensure it is getting 6-8 hours of sunlight a day and that the soil is well draining.
Mint is an easy to grow herb that has medicinal properties in addition to its minty flavor for culinary applications. Think drinks, ice cream, sauces, salads, main dishes, and chutney. The biggest problem you will have with mint is preventing it from taking over your entire garden.
Growing: Mint will come back season after season on its own, so be careful where you plant it to avoid competition with other plants. It prefers partial shade; in Phoenix afternoon shade is best. Cut any flowers that appear to promote leaf production. Mint will go dormant in the summer in Phoenix and will look like its dead, leave it alone and it will return when it feels the time is right. When it starts to grow again, cut off the old growth. Top with compost.
Watering: Mint needs regular water, use a water meter and water when the first two inches of soil is dry.
Pest and Disease Control: Root rot is the most common disease in mint, be sure to let your soil dry out between waterings. In addition to your natural predators, Neem Oil sprayed on the tops and bottoms of leaves will solve most pest problems with mint.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest mint as soon as a month after you plant your seedling. Harvest often by cutting the stems back to a pair of leaves to ensure new growth. Young leaves have the best flavor and drying them out is a great way to preserve for tea and cooking.
Container Growing: Mint spreads underground like ground cover, so container growing is the easiest way to contain its explosive growth. Plant it in at least a 2-gallon container that is convenient for your usage needs. An olla is an excellent addition to potted mint for watering.
Notes on Varieties:
Spearmint (Mentha Spicata): Heat tolerant variety with a sweet spot for Phoenix.
Oregano is a fairly simple herb to grow in Phoenix. It loves the heat and can do well in poor soil. It is a great companion plant to have in the garden since it attracts beneficial insects.
Growing: Plant 12 to 18 inches apart to give the plant plenty of space to expand in the garden. Oregano does best in well draining soil with plenty of sunlight and afternoon shade. No extra fertilizer is needed, just compost in the spring. Mulching around the base will keep the soil moist, but make sure to leave space around the stems to prevent root rot.
Watering: Water Oregano deeply when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry. Avoid soggy soil to prevent root rot.
Pest and Disease Control: Root rot is a common disease if the stem become soggy. Reduce the amount of watering times to help prevent this. Common pests include aphids, spider mites and leaf hoppers. Predatory insects, like lady bugs can help prevent these pests. A strong spray from the hose will also knock them off the plants. And if the infestations is too much neem oil sprayed on the tops and bottoms of leaves will help.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvesting can begin with the plant is 6-8 inches. Cut what you need from the plant and watch it continue to grow. Oregano can be freeze-dried, dried, or frozen with oil in ice cube trays.
Container Growing: Oregano does great in 12-inch containers with a good potting mix. Water when the top 2 inches of soil feel dry or plant with an olla! Prune in the spring and fall to give it a refresh and add compost at this time as well.
Variety Specific Information:
Italian – mild flavor, used medicinally and culinarily
Greek – strong oregano flavor, white edible flowers
Pak Choi is a Chinese cabbage, also known as bok choy. It is great to use in stir fry or soups.
Growing: Pak Choi is a cooler weather plant. If the temperatures are still above 100, keep them inside for a bit. They can do well in a shadier spot. Regularly fertilize to promote leaf growth.
Watering: Consistent water is necessary to keep soil moist, but avoiding waterlogging the soil. Cover the ground around them with mulch or straw to help with water retention.
Pest and Disease Control: Pak Choi are susceptible to flea beetles and cabbage caterpillars, you can use floating row covers or neem oil to combat these pests.
Harvesting and Storage: You can begin harvesting out leaves when the plant is about 3 weeks old. After 1-2 months you can harvest the entire plant.
Container Growing: Use at least a 5 gallon container size and be careful not to over-fertilize if growing in containers.
Parsley is a great herb to grow in Arizona, not only for the flavorful addition it can make to your dishes but allows because attracts beneficial insects to your garden while growing. Flat parsleys have a stronger taste than curly parsley.
Growing: Parsley develops long tap roots, so plant carefully without disturbing the roots too much. It prefers full sun. Cover the soil with mulch to help retain soil moisture. If attracting natural insect predators is your goal, allow the plant to bolt. If you want to prolong bolting, plant in area with partial afternoon shade.
Fertilizing: Parsley does best with rich soil, so amending with compost regularly will be beneficial.
Watering: Do not overwater parsley. Check the soil and when the first inch of topsoil is dry you can water again.
Pest and Disease Control: Parsley can susceptible to pests, so monitor it frequently.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvesting can begin 70-90 days after planting or after it develops at least 3 segments. You can harvest frequently after this point, cut stems on the outside of the plant first to promote new growth. Fresh parsley is best, but it can be freeze dried, dried or frozen if you have a surplus.
Container Growing: Because of its long root system, parsley needs at least 12 inches of soil if growing in containers. Fertilize it once a month.
Planting: Make sure you’re using at least a 20 gallon pot with a diameter of 30-36 inches and holes in the bottom for drainage. Plant tree up to the current soil level, don’t bury the trunk. Putting the pot on casters will be helpful for moving it, if needed.
Location: Pick a sunny spot with at least 8-10 hours of sun. Make sure it gets afternoon shade in the summer as the potted tree will dry out faster. If the forecast calls for frost, cover the tree with a sheet or frost cloth.
Watering: Get a soil moisture meter so you can check the soil. Water when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry, soaking the root ball until water runs out of the bottom of the pot. If you don’t have a water meter you can use your finger to poke in the soil to check moisture levels. Water as needed. Remember pots will dry out faster so in the summer you may need to water every day depending on the size of the pot.
Fertilizer: Choose a balanced citrus fertilizer, at least a 2:1:1 ratio. Don’t fertilize for the first year. After that, fertilize at 1/3 of the recommend dose on Valentines Day (Feb 14), Tax Day (April 15), Memorial Day (end of May), and Labor Day (1st Monday of September). If you choose to use Fish Emulsion or another organic fertilizer you will have to add more. Follow all instructions on the label.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sun daily and well-draining soil (sandy or loamy). Spacing should be 3-4 ft apart.
Watering: Water deeply twice a week, which will allow soil to dry slightly between waterings. If the leaves droop during the day but perk back up at night the plants are receiving enough water. However, if they do not perk back up at night you need to increase the watering frequency and cover with shade cloth. Once the fruits begin to appear, increase watering to encourage their development.
Mulch on top of the soil will help maintain moisture and act as a sun shield.
Shade cloth will help your cantaloupe make it through the summer in Arizona, cover them until temperatures fall below 100°.
Pest Control: Common pests include: Aphids, cucumber beetles, squash beetles, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Diseases: Primo Cantaloupe are resistant to powdery mildew
Fertilizer: Nitrogen fertilizer is helpful after the vines develop runners
Harvesting and Storage: Your fruit should be ripe in approximately 77 days, but look for the rind to turn golden yellow and the blossom end to soften. Smell your fruit! If it smells sweet, it’s time. Cut the fruit off with a sharp knife and enjoy! Store melons in a cool, dry place for up to 2 weeks
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a well-draining container at least 15 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Pumpkins can be planted from March-April for a summer harvest or in July-August with the monsoon for Halloween and Thanksgiving. They are decorative and edible at the same time, making them a superb addition to your summer garden in Phoenix.
Growing: Pumpkin vines are aggressive growers in Phoenix gardens, plan for them to sprawl over a large space. You can give them something to climb up, but you will have to support the pumpkins when they appear if you do. They prefer 6-8 hours of sunlight and afternoon shade. Cover the soil with mulch to help retain moisture. When the flowers begin to appear, fertilize them twice a month with fish emulsion or once a month with a store-bought fertilizer. Look for an NPK ratio close to 3-3-5 or 4-6-3.
Watering: Pumpkins need regular, deep watering. Use drip lines at the base of the plant to ensure slow, deep watering and to help avoid disease. If the plant wilts during the day but perks back up in the evening, your watering schedule is correct.
Pest and Disease Control: Pumpkins are susceptible to cucumber beetles, squash bugs, and vine borers, so check them regularly to catch the pests early. Check the bottoms of leaves and pick off any bugs you see. Apply neem oil to the tops and bottoms of affected leaves. If you find a vine borer, cut out them out of the vine and hill soil over the wound. Make sure they have room to spread and breathe to avoid diseases such as powdery mildew. A baking soda spray can be used if you catch this disease early.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest when the skin is thick and hard, their flavor is better the longer you leave them on the vine. Pumpkins will store up to 6-8 months if kept in a cool, dry place. Clip the stems close to the vine and cure them for 5-7 days inside.
Container Growing: Not Recommended.
Notes on Varieties:
Lumina: White-skinned variety with bright orange flesh similar in size to grocery store jack-o-lanterns. Great for decorating or in pies and soups.
Small Sugar: Pumpkins are usually around 10 inches when mature. Sweet flesh, good in pies.
Big Moose: Extra-large, bright orange variety that can be as large as 50lbs.
Shiver: A small, decorative white pumpkin that grows to 1.5-2.5lbs. Has natural resistance to powdery mildew.
Black Bear: A dark-skinned variety, almost black. Adds a sharp contrast to decorative pumpkin displays. Pumpkins are usually 1-1.5 lbs. Has natural resistance to powdery mildew.
Racer: Attractive medium orange pumpkin, averages 12-16lbs.
Kentucky Field: This pumpkin looks more like a large squash and weighs 10-20lbs on average. It has sweet flesh that is great for pies, soups, and roasting.
Speckled Hound: Has a beautiful yellow-orange flesh and an orange-green exterior. These are great for fall displays and also tasty. They are sweet and nutty with a similar texture to a butternut squash.
Jack O’Lantern: Your traditional pumpkin. These grow medium to large size with a deep orange color. These can be carved for a fun Halloween activity or are edible.
Red Malabar Spinach is a heat-tolerant, vining leafy green known for its vibrant red stems and thick, succulent leaves. Unlike traditional spinach, it thrives in warm weather and is commonly used in salads, stir-fries, and soups.
Growing: Requires at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Can grow in partial shade to full sun, with afternoon shade being ideal. Space plants 12 inches apart.
Providing a trellis is a good idea, whether it is an apartment balcony railing, some sticks, an old ladder, or anything else it can climb up. You can trim vines to manage their growth.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, two to three times a week. In the heat of the summer, you may need to water every day, especially if there is a heat wave. Mulching helps retain soil moisture.
If the plant dries out it may bolt and cause the leaves to turn bitter. Bolting is when it puts out flowers and seeds.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids, caterpillars, snails, slugs, and leaf miners. Leaf miners cause cosmetic damage, but you can still eat the leaves. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve the aphid problem. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray! For snails and slugs user copper tape, traps, or manually remove them in the early morning.
Fertilizing: Can fertilizer with a balanced fertilizer once or twice in the growing season. Compost will work as well.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest leaves once the vine reaches 12 inches tall or has 8-10 leaves, leaving at least 6 leaves on the vine. By harvesting the young leaves, new growth will appear. You can store leaves in the refrigerator for a couple of days, but is best eaten fresh.
Container Growing: Red Malabar Spinach will grow best in a container at least 5 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Additional Info: Great companion plants include basil and Armenian cucumbers. Malabar spinach is enjoyed raw or cooked (like any other green). Adding lemon juice or vinegar enhances the outcome of cooking the spinach.
Sage is a hardy plant that comes back year after year. The leaves can be used in sauces, sausage, and tea in addition to many other culinary applications. When flowers appear, they are a delicious addition to rice, egg, and cheese dishes. The leaves will look dusty green.
Growing: Sage is a desert tolerant plant that produces purple flowers. Afternoon shade will help your plant. They need about 12” of space to grow. The flowers will attract pollinators to your garden but are also useful in many culinary applications. If your sage plant is growing faster than you can harvest it, prune it aggressively in the spring after the frosts are over.
Watering: Sage prefers regular water, but overwatering can kill your plant. Allow the soil to dry out between waterings. In the summer it prefers infrequent deep watering. Make sure the soil is well draining and space it away from heavy water use plants.
Pest and Disease Control: Sage is vulnerable to pests such as aphids, slugs, spider mites, spittlebugs, and whiteflies. If you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of these problems for you! If you notice slugs or larger insects, pick them off and throw them away. Neem oil sprayed on the tops and bottoms of leaves will help with pests. Overwatering is the easiest way to kill your sage plant as they are susceptible to root rot.
Harvesting and Storage: Sage is a long-term investment in your garden, trim it minimally in the first year to allow it to establish itself. After that, you can harvest leaves and flowers year-round, taking some from each stem to promote new growth.
Container Growing: Sage grows well in pots, ensure that they have a hole at the bottom for drainage and mix in pumice with your soil to promote drainage. Container growing also allows you to avoid pest areas.
Notes on Varieties:
Common Sage: The most commonly recognized sage variety with the classic earthy, peppery flavor that works well in many dishes.
Red Malabar and Bloomsdale Spinach are heat-tolerant, leafy green vegetables that are packed with nutrients. Most varieties of spinach struggle in Phoenix’s low desert climate, these 2 varieties will do well with partial shade or shade cloth.
Growing: Requires at least 6 hours of direct sunlight daily. Can grow in partial shade to full sun, with afternoon shade being ideal. Space plants 12 inches apart.
For Malabar spinach, provide something for it to climb up, whether it is an apartment balcony railing, some sticks, an old ladder, or anything else. You can trim vines to manage their growth.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry, two to three times a week. In the heat of the summer, you may need to water every day, especially if there is a heat wave. Mulching helps retain soil moisture.
If the plant dries out it may bolt and cause the leaves to turn bitter. Bolting is when it puts out flowers and seeds.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids, caterpillars, snails, slugs, and leaf miners. Leaf miners cause cosmetic damage, but you can still eat the leaves. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve the aphid problem. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray! For snails and slugs user copper tape, traps, or manually remove them in the early morning.
Fertilizing: If you’re using a balanced fertilizer from a store such as 10-10-10, fertilize once or twice in the growing season. However, spinach loves seaweed emulsion as an organic fertilizer. You can use this every two weeks or so while it grows. Compost will work as well.
Harvesting and Storage: Spinach tastes different at different stages of growth, so experiment with leaves of different ages to decide what you like best. Harvesting frequently encourages new growth in a healthy plant. You can store leaves in the refrigerator for a couple of days, but is best eaten fresh.
Container Growing: Spinach is a great plant for container growing, use a container at least 6-8” deep. This allows you flexibility to move the plant around based on hot or cold temperatures and sun exposure. You can even move plants inside to a sunny location in the summer to have year-round harvests. Ensure Malabar has something to climb.
Additional Info: Great companion plants include basil and Armenian cucumbers. Adding lemon juice or vinegar enhance the outcome of cooking the spinach.
Variety Information:
Red Malabar: Malabar is known for its vibrant red stems and thick, and succulent leaves. Harvest leaves once the vine reaches 12 inches tall or has 8-10 leaves, leaving at least 6 leaves on the vine.
Bloomsdale: Once at least 5 leaves are present, cut the outer leaves to let the center ones continue to grow. If a flower bud appears at the center, cut the whole plant out. The leaves will turn bitter as this flower grows, so it is safe to eat what you have at this point.
Summer squash includes a wide variety of interesting types that share growing characteristics. Experiment with different varieties in this category to find one that works for your taste preferences.
Growing: Squash enjoy full sun and provide excellent ground cover for your gardens. Once summer heat or winter frost arrives, cut plants at their bases and throw them in your compost.
Watering: Water at the base of squash plants to prevent foliage disease.
Pest and Disease Control: Squash are susceptible to powdery mildew, ensure that you water at the base of plants to help avoid this. They are susceptible to pests such as squash bugs and cucumber beetles. Pick off adults and throw them away and spray neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves daily if these pests appear.
Harvesting and Storage: Summer squash varieties are best harvested young while they are still tender. Older summer squash will be woody and inedible.
Container Growing: Summer squash grows well in containers at least 12 inches deep. This gives you flexibility to avoid extreme sun or frost exposure.
Notes on Varieties:
Black Beauty Zucchini: This heirloom variety zucchini is a high yield plant that you can plant in two growing seasons, spring, and monsoon/fall season. 50-60 days to maturity and can quickly grow from a manageable sized squash to giants. It is best grown in large beds or containers. Creative ways to eat the prolific harvest include zucchini bread, muffins, casserole, egg dishes, pickled, stuffed zucchini and many more!
Crook Neck Yellow Squash: Bumpy appearance, easy to grow. Harvest every 2-3 days once fruit production begins to encourage new growth.
Early Prolific Straightneck: This yellow squash can grow prolifically (hence the name) and is quick to maturity at 50 days. The squash has a more buttery, nut flavor than green zucchini and does well in a casserole or soup.
Yellow Scallop: Unique flat shaped squash, also called sunburst squash. Best harvested when they are young and 2-4 inches in diameter.
Zephyr – 54 days to maturity. The vegetables are a unique summer squash with green at the blossom end, with the rest being yellow. Harvest when 4 – 6 inches long. If the weather is hot, you’ll notice a different amount of green on the plant, including some that may be green striped.
Growing: Requires full sun with at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day. Well drained soil with added compost improves growth. Space plants about 18-24 inches apart.
As plants grow and become heavy with fruit, a tomato cage is helpful to keep plants upright and avoiding breakage.
Watering: Keep soil moist but not waterlogged. Water when the top inch of soil feels dry. Mulching around the plant will help the soil retain moisture longer. Avoid overhead watering.
Pest and Disease Control: Generally peppers are naturally free of pests and disease, but they can occasionally be attacked by aphids and other sucking insects. Spray plant with a strong hose if you notice an infestation.
Fertilizing: Use a fertilizer with the ration close to 3-1-2. The higher the nitrogen the more likely your plant will have lots of foliage and be lacking in flowers and fruit.
Harvesting and Storage: Peppers are best stored on the counter and eaten quickly after harvesting. Use scissor or pruners to cut the peppers off. The peppers grow 4-6 inches in length. You typically want to pick the peppers when they have a light-yellow color.
Container Growing: Peppers will grow in a container at least 5 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster. Also fertilizing is important when growing in a container.
Swiss Chard is a leafy plant similar to spinach and will grow well during the cooler months in Arizona. It is easy to grow and can be harvested continuously.
Growing: Plant it in well-draining, compost rich soil. If your soil is light on organic matter, more fertilization may be necessary. Mulch will help reduce weed competition and keep the soil moist.
Watering: Keep it consistently moist to promote lots of healthy leaf growth.
Pest and Disease Control: Chard is largely pest free. Sometimes cabbage worms may appear, these can be controlled with a neem oil spray.
Harvesting and Storage: Once the leaves are 6-8 inches long you can begin harvesting the out leaves. Do this frequently and the plant will continue to produce more. They are great fresh in a variety of salads, soups, and stir fry. You can freeze them or dehydrate them and make a powder to add to smoothies.
Container Growing: It will need at least a 2-gallon container, make sure the soil is organically rich and well-draining.
Thyme is an herb that goes great in just about every dish you cook in your kitchen and is very easy to grow. In addition to being an excellent pollinator in your garden, it also has medicinal uses!
Growing: Thyme thrives on 6 hours of sunlight day, but can benefit greatly from afternoon shade. It needs well-draining soil, so raised garden beds or a pot are a good idea for this plant. You don’t need to worry about fertilizing Thyme, an application of compost in the spring is enough.
Watering: Thyme is drought tolerant after it establishes, which usually takes 6-8 weeks. Water it every 2-3 days at first. Once it is established, let the top 2 inches of soil dry out before watering again.
Pest and Disease Control: Thyme is susceptible to root rot, be careful not to over-water.
Harvesting and Storage: Cutting regularly stimulates fresh growth! The leaves of plants will also taste different at different stages, try out different aged leaves to see which one you like best. Cut off the leafy tops at the end of stems.
Container Growing: Thyme grows well in a variety of container sizes, so pick one that suits your space!
Notes on Varieties
English Thyme: Has a milder aroma and purple flowers.
Summer Thyme: Besides it’s fun name, this variety can be a regular perennial in your garden.
Tomatillos are a great addition to your garden for salsas and sauces, and are easy to grow in Arizona. They are slow growing plants, so give them lots of time to produce a bountiful harvest!
Growing: Plant tomatillos in pairs to ensure cross-pollination, otherwise they will not produce fruit. Tomatillos grow best between Mid-Feb through March and Mid-July through September. Give them 1.5-2 feet of space to grow. Plant them deeply as tomatillos will grow roots along buried stems. Support them with tomato cages to keep branches off the ground. They need 6-8 hours of sunlight a day and prefer afternoon shade. Plant flowers nearby to attract pollinators and natural pest predators! Use mulch to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and cool the soil. Use fertilizer with high phosphorus and potassium, but little to no nitrogen. A fertilizer with a NPK ratio of 3-18-18 or similar will work.
Watering: Water deeply with drip water or soaker hose to keep leaves dry.
Pest and Disease Control: Inspect your tomatillo plants frequently as they are susceptible to pests. Common pests include aphids, hornworms, whiteflies, and spider mites. Use Neem oil on the top and bottoms of leaves if these appear. Blight disease and verticillium wilt are common with these plants, you can combat this with a baking soda spray.
Harvesting and Storage: Tomatillos ripen approximately 60-80 days after transplant. Harvest when the husk begins to dry out and the fruit has filled the husk. They will be lightly soft. Store them in the fridge with their husks still on.
Container Growing: Tomatillos can grow in well-draining pots with bottom watering or ollas and support for the plant to grow on.
Notes on Varieties:
Queen of Malinalco: Native to south central Mexico, this unique variety has long, narrow fruit that ripens from green to yellow and tastes sweeter than other tomatillos.
De Milpa: A beautiful variety from Mexico that turns purple when ripe. They are a little bit smaller and have a more intense taste.
Toma Verde: Fruits can grow up to 2 inches. These do well when staked as they can start sprawling. A tomato cage will work for this. They have a sweet, citrus like flavor.
Tomatoes primarily have two growing seasons in Phoenix; the first is in the spring after the frosts (usually mid-February) until the summer heat arrives (hopefully April? But usaully March.), and one during the monsoons from July through September.
Growing: You can plant your seedlings up to the level of their bottom leaves, the lower stem will turn to roots if you do this. Tomatoes prefer 6-8 hours of sunlight per day and will thrive with morning sun and afternoon shade. Look to plant them on the east side of buildings or gardens with taller plants. Give them at least 2 feet of space to allow for good air circulation and growing space. Phosphorous fertilizer will help tomatoes produce more fruit, apply it once a month throughout the growing season. Use compost to cool the soil in the 2nd growing season and enrich your soil with lots of organic matter. Plant them deeply as tomatoes will grow roots along buried stems. They may seem like they’re not growing, but they are expanding their root system instead! Support them with tomato cages and prune leaves in the fall to allow more sun onto the fruit, helping it ripen.
Watering: Water tomatoes early in the day to avoid evaporation, and use drip water or soaker hose to keep the leaves dry. Water deeply to push their root systems down but allow soil to dry slightly between watering so oxygen can re-enter the soil system. Mulching with compost or straw is especially helpful for moisture retention in the 2nd growing season.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids, whiteflies, and spider mites. Spray with Neem oil on the tops and bottom of leaves if these appear. You can also plant them near basil, cilantro, or marigolds to promote natural predators.
Tomatoes are also susceptible to disease such as blight, powdery mildew, and leaf spot. When planting ensure they have plenty of space for air circulation, consistent watering, and calcium soil enrichment to prevent these.
Harvesting and Storage: Harvest tomatoes in the morning when they change colors from green to the color of the variety you are growing. Cut or twist them off the vine. They will continue to ripen indoors.
Container Growing: Use at least a 5-gallon container with bottom watering or an olla.
Indeterminate vs Determinate: Indeterminate tomato varieties are sprawling and can grow up to 6ft tall and wide, some even longer. They definitely need staking or multiple tomato cages. These will give you a slow, steady supply of tomatoes later in the season. Determinate varieties do not grow as large, with most staying around 4ft. They too need to be staked because the fruit ripens all at the same time, making the plant heavier, which can lead to breaking if not staked.
Notes on Varieties
Ace 55: Determinate variety. Low acid heirloom variety that works well in containers. Has large leaves which help prevent sunburn in Phoenix. Has been bred to be resistant to some common tomato diseases.
Black Krim: Indeterminate variety. Russian heirloom variety with bold, smoky flavors and beautiful purple tomatoes with partially black interior. The tomatoes are ready to harvest in approximately 90 days. Harvest when they are still half green and firm, then set them in a sunny place indoors to keep ripening.
Brandywine: Indeterminate variety. Can grow to be a large tomato plant, up to 6 feet sometimes. Stake the main stalk or support it as it grows bigger. Heirloom variety with deep flavor and delicate hints of acid. Some of the fruits can grow up to 1lb each! Harvest time is usually 60-90 days.
Jolene: Determinate variety. A heat-resistant variety that produces large red tomatoes with a smooth texture. Great for slicing. Bred to be resistant to some common tomato diseases.
Yellow Pear: Indeterminate variety. Prolific yellow cherry tomato variety; excellent sweet flavor that goes well in a variety of salsas, marinades, salads, or sauces.
Celebrity: Determinate variety. Medium sized red tomato, great for slicing. These do well with staking. With their size, it is best to pick them when they start to change color. They will continue to ripen on the counter.
Black Cherry: Indeterminate variety. Purple/brown color cherry tomato, with an unique smokey flavor. This variety is heat tolerant as well.
Rio Grande: Determinate variety. A high yield, Italian variety that thrives in Phoenix heat. Fruit is around 4 inches long. These have your classic tomato flavor and are great eaten fresh or made into sauces and soups.
Fox Cherry: Indeterminate variety. A bright red cherry tomato, high producer. While classified as a cherry tomato, they fruits are large enough to use like a regular tomato. They can be eaten fresh, in sauces, or try sun drying them.
Super Italian Paste: Indeterminate variety. This heirloom variety is shaped like a Roma tomato or can even grow as long as a banana pepper. They are orange-red in color and a variety great for sauces and paste.
Super Sweet 100 Cherry: Indeterminate variety. Prolific producer of red cherry tomatoes. Fertilize with a phosphorous fertilizer when planting to encourage early yields. It can benefit from pruning below the first flower cluster to promote fruit production Because this plant produces cherry tomatoes in bunches, stake the main stalk or provide a cage/trellis for it to climb on.
White Wonder: Indeterminate variety. They have a high sugar content and are sweet flavored. They ripen to a yellowish-white color. White wonders are good for slicing, juicing, and canning. Beefstake type tomato.
San Marzano: Indeterminate variety. These are a great variety for making and canning tomato sauce, pizza sauce, or tomato paste. The tomatoes reach about 3-5 ounces in size, turning a bright red when ripened.
Cherokee Purple: Indeterminate, heirloom variety. 80 days to maturity. Fruits can grow to 12 – 16 ounces. Great as slicer tomatoes or eaten raw. Have purple shoulders and a darker red skin.
Growing: Requires 6-8 hours of full sun per day. Should be spaced 3-5 feet apart from other plants to allow ample growth. Can plant in a raised bed and let grow along the ground next to the bed. As your fruit begin to grow, place cardboard below them to protect from pests and rotting.
Watering: Keep soil moist, but not watered logged. A deep watering two to three times a week should be plenty. Let the top couple of inches dry out between waterings. To improve sweetness of the fruit, stop watering in the last week before harvest. Providing mulch will help maintain the soil moisture.
Pest and Disease Control: Common pests include aphids, squash beetles, pill bugs, and spider mites. Neem oil sprayed on the top and bottom of leaves will solve this problem if it arises. Or, if you have a thriving microclimate, your natural predators will take care of it for you. Hooray!
Powdery mildew is a common disease and can look like white spots or patches on a plant. To avoid this, space plants far enough apart to provide good air circulation. If you have it, remove the infected plant parts and throw them in the trash, do not compost.
Fertilizing: Can use a 10-10-10 fertilizer while the vine is growing. Once it begins flowering, switch to a flowering fertilizer or one that is higher in phosphorous and potassium, with a low amount of nitrogen.
Harvesting and Storage: Fruit should ripen in 80-90 days. It will be ready to harvest when the underside of the fruit turns creamy yellow, the rind turns dull, the tendril near the fruit stem has withered, and a deep, hollow sound when tapped. Cut fruits from the vine using a sharp knife or pruners.
Watermelons can be stored in a cool, dry place up to 2 weeks. Once cut, refrigerate and eat within 3-5 days.
Container Growing: Melons grows best in a container at least 15 gallons or larger. You will need to water more frequently as containers tend to dry out faster.
Notes on Varieties:
Crimson Sweet: Large fruit with sweet, bright red flesh. Fruit is 15-25lbs.
Sugar Baby: Small variety with 8-10lb fruits.
All Sweet: Very sweet variety with thin stripes and fruits up to 25lbs.
Winter squash includes a wide variety of interesting types that share growing characteristics. Experiment with different varieties in this category to find one that works for your taste preferences.
Growing: Squash enjoy full sun and provide excellent ground cover for your gardens. Once summer heat or winter frost arrives, cut plants at their bases and throw them in your compost.
Watering: Water at the base of squash plants to prevent foliage disease.
Pest and Disease Control: Squash are susceptible to powdery mildew, ensure that you water at the base of plants to help avoid this. They are susceptible to pests such as squash bugs and cucumber beetles. Pick off adults and throw them away and spray neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves daily if these pests appear.
Harvesting and Storage: Winter squash varieties are harvested when the fruit is older and the skin is hard.
Container Growing: Squash likes to sprawl over a large are so growing it in containers will severely limit production.
Notes on Varieties:
Autumn Delight: Classic acorn squash with dark green skin. High yield variety with natural resistance to powdery mildew.
Blue Hubbard: Striking grey/green colored skin contrasts with sweet deep orange flesh. Great for roasting, soups, purees and pies. Can store for an extended period of time in a cool, dry place.
Honeynut: Small squash, similar to a butternut squash. Each fruit grows about 4-5 inches long and is very sweet. These are cooked similar to all other winter squashes. The interior coloring a deep orange, that adds a pop to any meal.
Silver Edged: Attractive ornamental variety with edible white and silver seeds. This can grow large in the monsoons so be sure to give it plenty of space.
Spaghetti Squash: Has stringy flesh that can be boiled or baked and then turned into vegetable spaghetti.
Waltham Butternut: Heirloom variety of winter squash that can grow up to 6 pounds. The young fruit can also be harvested and prepared like a summer squash. If left on the vine until the skin hardens, they will store well for the winter. Orange interior.
Python Bean (Yard Long Bean)
Yard long beans include many great options for your table and are also called asparagus beans or Chinese long beans. They are also a good option if you are following the three sisters (beans, corn, squash) growing combination. Python beans prefer lots of sunlight and are easy to grow! They restore nutrients to soils and are a good option through October when the weather is still warm.
Growing: Plan for at least 6-8 hours of sunlight per day. Python beans prefer well-draining soil, but don’t require compost. They will improve if you can provide this however. No fertilizer is recommended for these plants. Plant them on a trellis or something they can grow up because they can get very tall in the right conditions.
Watering: Water deeply once a week to allow the soil to dry in between waterings. Pay attention to the soil during hot/cold spells to avoid under/over watering. Avoid getting the leaves wet.
Pest and Disease Control: Avoid too much water for them as this can cause disease; they are susceptible to root rot. You may also see aphids, spider mites, or bean beetles. Pick off the beetles and toss them away if they appear. If your micro-climate is thriving, your natural predators should take care of them! Use neem oil on the tops and bottoms of leaves to combat most pests.
Harvesting and Storage: They are ready to harvest in about 75 days, or when the beans are 10-12 inches long. Harvest the beans regularly to encourage more growth! Pick them while they are slender so the beans inside are still small. Twist the bean off the vine. For a more technical variation, you can try harvesting them young and preparing them as edamame!
Container Growing: Python beans can be grown in containers, plant them in at least 5 gallons of well-draining soil 3-4 inches apart and give them something to climb at least 6-8 feet tall. Use a moisture meter to be careful not to over water.